Saturday, October 27, 2007

Boat Racing Festival

This past weekend was the Boat Racing Festival, which marks the end of Buddhist Lent.  This date typically occurs in October or November, and the date is determined by lunar cycles. For the past several weeks, anticipation has been building with booths and new restaurants getting set up along the banks of the Mekong. Legend has it that the Naga (a sea dragon snake thing that lives in the Mekong and has something to do with a creation story) lets out a huge fire ball from the water and that officially marks the end of lent.  Friday night I went down to the water with my host family and the streets were so packed we could barely move.  Chains of people were holding hands so as not to get separated.  Everyone had these little boats made from banana leaves and flowers and incense with candles lit on them.  Although I'm still not totally sure about the significance, it was something about getting rid of darkness with the candlelight.  So people would send these little boats out into the water as a prayer.  It was quite a sight, all of these candles floating out in the huge Mekong river, and fireworks going off above it.  
 
So then Saturday was Boat Race day and teams of rowers raced their long, narrow boats.  It was SO impressive.  These boats held up to 50 rowers and the shores were once again packed with people cheering and eating and drinking.  Quite the event...I was also on Lao television.  That's right, I'm famous.  Actually we just happened to be standing right underneath the camera guy and they just kept scanning the crowds between races. 


Some of my extended host family members and I at the festival.

 


Lao Food

There is a joke around the MCC office that you can tell people from home as much cultural stuff as you want, but no one really gets excited about the fact that you are living abroad unless you can freak them out with weird food you've eaten. As Lao has been such a rural subsistence culture people basically eat whatever they can find.  There is a family here that has some potted plants on their porch just because they look nice.  I guess it is not infrequent that Lao people come up on the porch and take a bite of one of the leaves or flowers and ask each other how to cook it.  I found this picture gallery on BBC...it explains it well: http://news.bbc.co.uk/2/shared/spl/hi/picture_gallery/07/asia_pac_unusual_lao_cuisine/html/1.stm
 
So to add to my collection of different animals and bugs and their various by products, at the boat races I had the opportunity to try "kai luu", which is a duck egg that already has a baby duck growing in it.  Although the baby was small (about the size of a quarter) and there were no feathers (the only way my family got me to eat it) it took a few tries and pep talks to get it down, followed by some Beer Lao of course.




Saturday, October 20, 2007

Family Picnic

So my host family has some land outside of Vientiane where they grow different kinds of fruit and raise fish to sell.  We took a picnic lunch out there last weekend.  It was so nice to get out of the city and drive around the peaceful countryside.
 This is Pa--my host father chilling on a hammock by the fish pond.


Toui, my host brother picking a ripe papaya.  
The green ones are also picked to make Papaya Salad...a favorite spicy Lao food.


The picnic lunch, spread out on giant banana leaves was complete with grilled fish, sticky rice, and papaya salad (the green shredded looking thing).  The woman in the pink shirt is my Mae--host mom.

Saturday, October 6, 2007

Pakse part 2

English teaching in action! I'm wearing a Lao skirt ("sin") teaching this beginner class, where the guys always sit at one table, and the girls insist on sitting at another!

Pakse is situated right by the Bolaven Plateau which is famous for its cool climate, waterfalls, fertile soil (coffee, fruit, cardamom and gorgeous flowers are grown here) and native ethnic groups. I purchased some cloth from this woman who weaves using a hand held loom.

My new favorite color is "rice green". If I didn't take this picture on an overcast day, I think the color green would be too bright for my little blog here to handle. This shot is taken just outside of Pakse, where each family group grows their food for the year. I went on a bike ride through this area, and literally couldn't stop laughing. Not only was it beautiful, and cool (to the point of needing a long sleeve!) but people would just stare at me until I smiled or waved or said "sabaidee!" and then they would go nuts greeting me back! Because for so long the only foreigners these people knew were French, many times I hear "bonjour madame!". Due to the different international influences throughout the generations, it seems as though most Lao people aged 35-50 speak French, most grandparents know some Russian, and young people are learning either English or Chinese.


Known in antiquity as the Land of a Million Elephants, I felt it only appropriate that I take a ride on one of these giants while in Lao.

Tuesday, October 2, 2007

Pakse



So after an 11 hour bus ride south along the Mekong, my travels have brought me down to Pakse, in the Champasak province. "Pak" means mouth and the town is situated at the point where the "Se" River meets the Mekong. There is another branch of the school I'm teaching at here, and so they sent me down for some orientation, and also to cover for another teacher that had to go to Bangkok for several weeks. We are at the tail end of the rainy season, but it has rained fairly steadily since arriving on the overnight bus. I of course am loving it, we won't be getting too many more of these pounding rain on tin roof storms. Most of my work days include some orientation, including how Lao people learn, and some of the unique challenges they face in learning another language. Then I plan a lesson for a couple of hours, throw on my sinh (Lao skirt) and go! I am teaching mostly adults in two different classes. One group is learning can/can't, and the teacher of this class is British, so everyone here is laughing about how when she comes back all of her students will be speaking with an American accent "keeant" instead of "cont". The accent issue is something I've found interesting. The majority of the teachers at this school are Australian or British, and we use a British text, but it's true that out in the real world, these students will have to deal with all different accents, so why shelter them now I suppose. I have also found that I really enjoy teaching. To my teacher parents, this comes as a bit of a shock...this was always the one profession that I knew for certain I wouldn't be doing, and granted this context is rather unique, not only because I get to do it in SE Asia, but also that these students are SO eager to learn. Two fairly large motivators for me as a teacher.

The downside to being here is I haven't spoken a word of Lao since leaving the capital. Language study finished up last week, and although I was feeling good about progress, I'm worried about forgetting everything. I hope to continue with a tutor when I get back, and undoubtedly when I start working with the street kids I will be speaking Lao more consistently.

Monday, October 1, 2007

Snapshots


Rice harvest


The four MCCers with our Lao language teachers, Nou and Kham.



Giant reclining Buddha outside of Vientiane